Saturday, February 4, 2012

Christmas in Austria

Here in Doha, I found some Christmas Crafts at ELC and snuck one into our suitcase.  I was so proud of myself...the paper tree project was light, flat, and all-inclusive, perfect for traveling.  Silly self...I thought that the pieces were already cut out or at least perforated.  So when I excitedly gave the project to Pat & Hannah, I didn't expect that the resulting activity would include Pat tracing and then cutting out dozens of shapes with a pair of curved cuticle scissors or that Bob would have to use a Swiss Army knife to awl the holes in the pieces.  Ummm ooops.  But they as well as Hannah were wonderful troopers, and as a result, we had a very fine Christmas tree in Austria.  

We placed the paper tree in the center of a fresh wreath, purchased in Salzburg, which made the whole thing smell good. 





Then Christmas Eve evening, I was headed down to the washing machine and found this from our hosts: cookies, gifts, and a bottle of wine.  Or maybe it was from Santa?



And Santa did come in the night... The stockings were filled with little bits of things from him and from each of us to the other.  It was actually a perfect "amount" of Christmas...some sweet cards, gifts and a little spending money from Texas friends and family, small gifts from Pat & Bob, small gifts from each other.  No big piles of plastic like I'm apt to provide other times.  I need to learn a lesson from this...


Thumpity Thump Thump

My people (the under 40 crowd) wanted nothing more than to have a big snowball fight.  I, as a refined woman of manners...or perhaps as the one who didn't want to dig snow out of her nose, deal with the ensuing whining and fistfights, or have to line-dry all the sopping wet clothes...did not want to have a snowball fight.  But as the snow piled higher and deeper on our deck, the alternative presented itself: a snowman.

Behold the revealing...








Salzburg Christmas Market

The Salzburg Christmas market was smaller than the one in Munich, but it was still lots of fun.  Here are a few pictures, but the rain made me keep my camera put away most of the time.  Plus I had some shopping to do...







Back in October, when John started mumbling about a potential December trip and what about something to Thailand or somewhere like that, I said I wanted to go somewhere that had (1) trees, (2) cold, and (3) Christmas.  A potential bonus would be (4) snow...and a jackpot would be (5) skiing.  I married me a damned fine vacation planner.

Fortress Marionette Museum

Inside the fortress is a small marionette museum.  It's fascinating in terms of craft and spookiness.  And in the winter when you're from the desert or the fiery state of Texas, it's also nice and warm.








Salzburg Castle/Fortress

We hated to leave again so soon after settling in Zauchensee, but it was two days until Christmas, and if we were going to get a chance to experience some Austria holiday goodness, we had to get while the gettin' was good.  So after a day of getting organized, we jumped back on the train and took the 2 hour ride into Salzburg.

Factoring in transportation limitations (we had to catch the last train of the day back to Zauchensee), we only had about four hours in Salzburg.  The Christmas markets were in full swing, but the snow that was falling at higher elevations was rainy slush in Salzburg.  So we chose one touristy destination, ate a lovely early dinner, and wandered the Christmas market.

Our destination of choice was Salzburg castle/fortress.

This gold globe is a piece of artwork.  No, that is not a real person standing on top of it.  We didn't stop and ponder the art description.  Have you ever tried to herd a group of four adults and three children? It sounds easier than it is, especially factoring in the cold and the language differences and the jet lag, so some big golden globes don't get the pondering they probably deserve.

You can walk up the icy, slippery hill, or you can take the "funicular railway."  Here are a few views from the tour, which was good but cold and unguided (wandering, looking, a little reading)...



(This is the view from the back side.  I want to know what that house is, that it's important enough to be saved in its own space like that...)



The castle courtyards were decorated for Christmas but nothing was open.



Snow Bunnies 2011






omg: Did I Mention the Bread?

Jagdhaus has free bread delivery (you pay for the bread, but the free delivery is daily, early in the morning). Oh my lord...the bread in Germany and Austria.  It's gorgeous and it's EVERYWHERE. So each morning, we had a bag or box of awesomeness waiting for us.


Including chocolate croissants!



Zauchensee, Austria: Jagdhaus Escape Hatch

Pat & Bob arrived the next morning (their plane was 40 minutes early! Go German efficiency!).  John hopped on the metro, got them at the airport and brought them back to the hotel.  We then stashed our bags, went for a walk to Marianplatz (again), ate at Hofbrauhaus (again), and marveled at the gorgeous snowfall that stayed nice and thick through the day in Munich.

Then at 4 PM we schlepped our bags on metro to Hauptbahnhof, Munich's central station and found our regional train to Austria.  We took "second class" (open coach) which was just fine--it got full but we had assigned seats, and it was comfortable, clean, safe, etc.  Unfortunately, it was also dark outside, so we didn't get to see much on the 4 hour trip to Austria.

We departed the train in Altenmarkt, Austria, where a taxi was supposed to be waiting for us.  It wasn't.  And the hour was "late" (no more area buses).  And our mobiles didn't work at that point.  And there was no where logical to walk...with all seven of us and our 10,427 suitcases...in the snow...

Did I mention that we desert people are sort of astounded by how cold anything under...um...85 degrees feels?

Thank heavens that the little train station had a phone and Your Correspondent is uber-organized and about 20 minutes later, we had a taxi.  From there, it as a harrowing 15-minute ride, speeding through the snowy dark along winding narrow roads which gave me one, long, slow-motion heart attack while Hannah fell sleep next to me drooling all down her jacket and incrementally sliding, inching down the van's third row seat and into the floorboard.  Then we arrived in the tiny ski village of Zauchensee (Zow-ook-en-see...I always think of "Look and see!").  We trudged upstairs to our nice, big, warm third floor apartment and passed out, still not really being able to see much of what surrounded us.

Zauchensee, we later learned, is really a "local" ski town--their main visitors are middle-class families from Germany and Austria.  I think it's sort of like a Red River, New Mexico is to Texas, which suits us just fine because we love Red River and don't need any extra hoity toity  Except that this also meant the use of English was limited.

Our hosts told us we were their first English-speaking guests.  In stores and restaurants, everything worked out fine, but at moments it was awkward, like when we tried to figure out stuff at the grocery store.  You're buying some ham and cannot read whether or not it's already smoked or raw.  The butcher is kind but speaks no English.  All ham packaging is in German.  You can't figure out whether the tall flowery bottle is shampoo, conditioner, or body soap. The only lady in the store speaks no English. The only German you can say is "pinklepause,"

I think about Pat and Bob...they had come from Texas to Munich to Austria in one long trip with no rest.  How did they not fall asleep standing up?

The Jagdhaus apartments.  Our place was on the upper left, sort of set back.

Desert child peeking out at the snow.

The deck of our apartment.  Apparently, the snow came late to Austria. Just a few weeks earlier, there was none.  But once the snow started, it kept coming.  It snowed every day we were there (six days).

The view from our deck.  That's Zauchensee village--other hotels, some small restaurants, bars, and ski rentals as well as a few other shops.  And ski lifts.  Oh so many fabulous ski lifts.

The Austrian alps.

One Night in Munich...

We had one night in Munich before John's parents arrived. So we got from the airport to our hotel. (Yes, the trains in Germany are awesome...affordable, clean, easy to understand, and alway.on.time.) The hotel was about 1/2 mile from Marianplatz, the tourist center of Munich. Lots of cool architecture, churches, shopping, museums, and food.

On the way, we had our first taste of gluwein, spiced wine served around the holidays.  And while we were enjoying this, little flurries of snow started to fall.  Serious heavenly trip off to a good start.


That's the New Town Hall (in German: Neues Rathaus...how could any American not just LOVE the fact that a government building is called a "rat haus"?!?).  The Gothic Revival architecture is stunning, and that tower houses the Glockenspiel. (Sidenote: Yes, Hank is almost as tall as I am. No, he had no pants other than school uniform pants before our trip.  Only Jack owned a long-sleeve shirt...which we had brought from Texas for Hank in summer 2010.)


The Munich Christmas Markets were in full swing, set up in the square in front of the rathaus and decorated with lights. We did a little shopping, as I immediately began wondering how many suitcases we would have to buy to get home...as a reminder, on the summer trip, we bought four...I'll go ahead and spoil it: we had to buy two large rolling duffel bags...

After the long day of flying and the little bit of shopping, we had our first Munich meal at a beerhall: the famed Hofbrauhaus.  The food was good, the atmosphere was great, and the beer was...as the Germans say, "supa!"





Yes, I did. Every drop.

Doha Christmas 2011

The first Christmas away from home (2010) was very very difficult. I didn't bring any decorations with us, the stuff I could find here was cheap and "odd" (really horrible fake tree with LED lights shooting out of the needles?!?), and without Christmas music and lights, it really just doesn't feel anything like the Christmas season here to me. at. all.  John's parents' visit totally saved me from complete emotional breakdown over the oddity of the whole thing.

This year was better. In January 2010, I spotted a Norfolk Island Pine at our neighborhood grocery store. Let's not discuss how much it cost...only that it was about three feet tall and I bought it on the spot without one hesitation. In Texas, my Mom and John's Mom had them, and I loved having one to decorate with one string of pepper lights and some little light, clear balls or some light little wooden apples. (The ones in Texas were a couple of years older than the one I bought and could handle a little decorating.)

 Well, somehow that little tree along with some carefully spotted actual Christmas wrapping paper helped me significantly with my attitude. The only challenge was that the little tree was struggling under even the weight of one string of tiny LED lights. So I asked John to keep his eyes open at the Omani/plant souq...that maybe we could find a larger N.I. pine. He told Babu, an amazingly awesome Nepalese gentleman that knows everything about landscaping plants in Doha.

 Then one evening, the doorbell rings, and it's Babu. He has this beast of a pine/fur/??? tree. The trunk is as big around as my lower arm and it has a huge old head of hair on it. It is outstanding...only the needles are so sharp that putting the lights and ornaments on was quite the arduous task. I ended up having to wear oven mitts because the pokes were do damned sharp.

Anyway, we survived Doha Christmas 2011 in much better spirits this year. It was a simple affair--just a few presents for the kids, some Charlie Brown Christmas music, and a special breakfast. Two days later we were leaving for the trip...In fact without the terrible jarring absence of Christmas I experienced last year, it was kind of nice not to have the overload of Christmas that happens in the US. No black Fridays...no interweb Mondays...no Jared diamond commercials...The relative simplicity was actually very nice. If I could just transport our church's Advent service over here, then all would be good.

Even at 11 years old, Jack still gets the full-on Christmas Crack disease every year.  Here is his at six years old. Notice the lingering similarity.  Doha Christmas Beast is in the background.

The princess castle Hannah received and himself assembled.  Beauty and the Bearded King.

The boys got hats for Christmas. The Sponge Bob mask is particularly terrifying.
Christmas morning breakfast: cinnamon pull-aparts (Thank you CB!), garlic cheese grits, fried eggs, and sausages...pork sausages. 

Ma and Pa Kettle starring in Doha Gothic.